My family and other 'Pests'

Written by JB jnr

Dad seems to be giving this blog the cultural credentials that a travel blog deserves and I seem to be left to describe my thoughts on traveling in close proximity with ones father for 2 weeks. A state of affairs that I think may even one day warrant its own website or possible novel – at least a session on the couch with my counsellor. I am only joking, so far he has been impeccably well behaved and hasn't embarrassed me once, but then again we haven't had the inevitable stressful situation that can turn a normal functioning father/son relationship into a full blown battle of Carthage. I feel though that there is plenty of opportunity for diplomatic relations to fall apart as we move further away from Western Civilization as the food, plumbing and linen become more indigestible.

Tomorrow however, our last day in Budapest, we have agreed to go our separate ways for a few hours. Dad is off to visit the Communist era statue graveyard and I have elected to try out the local Turkish Baths, the thought of being pummeled and rubbed raw by former Olympic Hungarian weight lifter and then plunged into hot and cold pools repeatedly, didn't appeal to Dad. Must be something to do with my more progressive outlook on life.

However as it is my Blog, I do feel I have some 'valid' observations to make on the places we are visiting. As we left Vienna from the Westbanhof station on the 'Avala' train, I realised I am not used to clean, comfortable and uncrowded trains that leave on time. The 3 hour journey passed quickly and I enjoyed watching the largely flat Danube floodplain shoot by completely engrossed in my own thoughts. I have had long enough now since leaving work to not think about it and can concentrate more about what lies ahead as opposed to what I have left behind. Its at times like this that my brain starts turn creative as it has been unleashed from its former captor and the future seems so much brighter and filled with opportunity.

What we are trying to achieve is pretty hectic, 2 weeks through Europe (Southampton to Istanbul) spending enough time in key places to do them justice but we have a schedule to keep. We have agreed to spend 3 days in Romania and 3 days in Istanbul, with 2 days each in Vienna and Budapest. We then have 3 ,15 hour plus overnight train rides between the major countries. The most exciting of which will be the Bucharest to Istanbul journey which passes through Bulgaria and we have a 2am stop at the border to arrange Visas to enter Turkey – looking forward to setting the alarm for that one!

I have warmed to Budapest I feel it has a progressive spirit, everyone seems keen to embrace the modern Western culture, certainly evident from clothes, cars and language – everyone we have spoken to speaks perfect English. Not really sure why the city shouldn't be all those things, I suppose I am surprised as it hasn't met with my expectations which was rather more hardcore East European.

Three parts of the city have been declared World Heritage Sites so that Andrássy Avenue, the Castle district and Danube embankment now hold the award, all three are stunning sites.
The Castle district on the hill is the core of the historic part of town and contains some of the most important historical monuments. I have read that the Citadel has endured every disaster thinkable - earthquake, fire and world war – but it seems to have survived and the medieval monuments are a tremendous. We entered through the north gate and you get the feeling you have traveled back in time to a different era, where there is an eclectic mix of Baroque architecture interspersed with Roman foundations.

ps. for those that didn't know Budapest is actually 2 cities, Buda and Pest!

Vienna to Budapest

Written by JB snr

This train goes on to Belgrade from Budapest so perhaps it should be called the Milosevic express, but we hope there wont be much evidence of previous atrocities en route, although with our mixed ethnic backgrounds I remain a little uneasy.

As I sit awaiting our departure we are surrounded by dozens of different languages, all unrecognisable. Considering that Austria is surround by the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania, Serbia and many more, I suppose that shouldn't be too surprising! What is reassuring is that they all look much like we do and all wear the same clothes. But now I hear English (Barnsley) being spoken – how dare they copy our route, have they no ideas of their own.

And so to Budapest. I have been here before for a couple of days, giving medical lectures in the mid 90's. It was forward looking then and it will be interesting to see if it has changed at all. My enduring memory is of a completely indigestible meal at a posh restaurant. As we hurtle across Eastern Europe we see the Audi train, bearing a 100 or so brand new Audi TT's and wonder where they were built and to where they are bound. Parades of officials in various national uniforms pass throughout the train as we cross the Hungarian border. They check passports and tickets, several times but it is all very cordial and efficient – one doesn't get the feeling that the Secret Police are involved. We gradually begin to notice a scruffiness in the railway stations as we speed across the former Austro-Hungarian empire. This scruffiness however was not evident in Austria but the open countryside is beautiful and we saw a giant wind farm, possibly with several 100 turbines.

Budapest is a fine city with an excellent and cheap metro, fine open spaces etc. We walked through the commercial centre in the afternoon where C&A, M&S and Tescos all have a significant presence. We then walked back along the Danube to the Parliament building, a massive Gothic confection inspired by Westminster. We had an excellent lunch at the restaurant called Box utca opposite the Arany J Metro and dinner in the outstanding Cafe Kor, where goose liver pate, goulash, duck and fine local wine Villanyi was fantastic and excellent value with great service.

Parts of the city and the countryside on the approaches, are shabby and derelict but there is a great sense of rebirth since they have been able to leave their Communist past behind.

Yes it has changed for the better and is less “clinical” than Vienna.