Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Vienna to Budapest

Written by JB snr

This train goes on to Belgrade from Budapest so perhaps it should be called the Milosevic express, but we hope there wont be much evidence of previous atrocities en route, although with our mixed ethnic backgrounds I remain a little uneasy.

As I sit awaiting our departure we are surrounded by dozens of different languages, all unrecognisable. Considering that Austria is surround by the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania, Serbia and many more, I suppose that shouldn't be too surprising! What is reassuring is that they all look much like we do and all wear the same clothes. But now I hear English (Barnsley) being spoken – how dare they copy our route, have they no ideas of their own.

And so to Budapest. I have been here before for a couple of days, giving medical lectures in the mid 90's. It was forward looking then and it will be interesting to see if it has changed at all. My enduring memory is of a completely indigestible meal at a posh restaurant. As we hurtle across Eastern Europe we see the Audi train, bearing a 100 or so brand new Audi TT's and wonder where they were built and to where they are bound. Parades of officials in various national uniforms pass throughout the train as we cross the Hungarian border. They check passports and tickets, several times but it is all very cordial and efficient – one doesn't get the feeling that the Secret Police are involved. We gradually begin to notice a scruffiness in the railway stations as we speed across the former Austro-Hungarian empire. This scruffiness however was not evident in Austria but the open countryside is beautiful and we saw a giant wind farm, possibly with several 100 turbines.

Budapest is a fine city with an excellent and cheap metro, fine open spaces etc. We walked through the commercial centre in the afternoon where C&A, M&S and Tescos all have a significant presence. We then walked back along the Danube to the Parliament building, a massive Gothic confection inspired by Westminster. We had an excellent lunch at the restaurant called Box utca opposite the Arany J Metro and dinner in the outstanding Cafe Kor, where goose liver pate, goulash, duck and fine local wine Villanyi was fantastic and excellent value with great service.

Parts of the city and the countryside on the approaches, are shabby and derelict but there is a great sense of rebirth since they have been able to leave their Communist past behind.

Yes it has changed for the better and is less “clinical” than Vienna.

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